Problem: the original philodendron silver plant is looking quite bare near the pot but still has several healthy vines - this is completely a matter of opinion, if you like the way your plant looks, then no need to change it.
A good proportion of questions I receive involve identifying a plant. I'm pretty familiar with most common house plants but there are times when I just can't remember a name, even though I've seen it before. Here, I will go through one example of how I found the name of a plant with only a picture.
Air plants are a lot like Pokemon: there's a strong desire for a "gotta catch 'em all" mentality. But please, for the love of plants, make sure you can provide the right conditions for them. Here's what you need to know.
Congratulations, you just bought your first house plant! The store clerk quickly gave you some vague instructions beginning with “these are super easy to take care of…”
If you only read one article, make it this one: although these factors are in separate paragraphs, they are all interdependent and need to be in BALANCE for a healthy, thriving plant (more on this in another article).
Note: this method also works for pothos and other vine-type plants. Even larger aroids and monstera deliciosa can be propagated this way.
Problem: the original Scindapsus pictus plant is looking quite bare near the pot but still has several healthy vines – this is completely a matter of opinion, if you like the way your plant looks, then no need to change it.
Solution: salvage as many healthy leaves and start a new plant.
Concept: a cutting of the original plant (in this case, a stem) develops new roots. In time, a new vine will emerge as well. The “new” plant is genetically identical to the original, a clone. Other types of propagation are root division, leaf cutting, and seed.
Method: if your original plant looks nice near the pot, then you need only to prune a few vines. In this case, I want to re-start the entire plant so I’m going to cut the vines back all the way to the soil.
Selection: in order for these cuttings to root, you must include a section of the main vine. I’ve even seen it work without a leaf! I cut the main vine into short sections that comprise of a leaf, a petiole (the stalk that attaches directly to the leaf), and a section of the main vine (this is technically called the “stem”). While the cuttings are in my sink, I gave them a quick rinse.
Rooting: a cute little laboratory flask is helpful because the narrow opening naturally keeps the cuttings bundled together and submerged. Else, I find these soft rubber ties very helpful in keeping the cuttings together and securing them to the lip of whatever rooting container you’re using. You basically want their cut ends to stay submerged in the water.
Note: there are many ways to root a plant – I’ve chosen to root in water here but you can do it in perlite, sphagnum moss, or directly into soil. The goal is just to keep the area around the node moist (the section of the vine where the new roots will grow).
Other considerations/FAQ:
Hope you found this helpful! Do you want to learn my approach to houseplant care that’s both scientifically sound and gives you realistic expectations? Cut through endless tips/tricks that may or may not work and get a solid foundation in how this all works:
Online course – Essentials of Houseplant Enjoyment
